W A H I B A S A N D S
All of Oman is desert terrain, most of it rocky and mountainous. Then there's Wahiba Sands which is the classic Lawrence of Arabia image of the desert as a vast sea of golden brown sand.
We foolishly thought we could make our own way to our desert campground. In Bidiyah where you stock up on goods and get the air let out of your tires, we figured we'd just ask someone for directions. A couple of guys were lingering at the gas station and convinced us (frightened us actually) that we need a navigator. When we were shown a map that looked barren of landmarks, we agreed to pay them 20 Omani rials ($50). We later learned the going price was 10 rials. So we got taken. But boy oh boy were we relieved to have a guide drive in front and lead us directly to our camp about 45 minutes away. We would never have made it by ourselves. The so-called road had no signs, no clear path, no place to stop for directions, no one to help if you got stuck in the sand. And you will get stuck in the sand if you drive slow. |
The guy drove so fast, a couple times Cat thought she would lose control of the car. It was rather harrowing. Get a glimpse in this 40 sec VIDEO
We had booked a tent in one of the several dozen camps that have bloomed in Wahiba Sands catering to tourists, including five star boutique camps. Later we learned that only two camps are owned and operated by local Bedouins. We lucked out with Bedouin Rustic Camp because Obeid the owner is a genuine Bedouin. He has a presence, a special personality. We found him fascinating. One night he built a camp fire and we sat under the stars as he told us facts and tales of the desert, such as camels can go for six months without water. He said Wahiba Sands used to have 180,000 Bedouins living there but now there are only 300. He said it happened in 1982 when electricity came to Bidiyah and everyone relocated there. Obeid has a house and family in Bidiyah but comes every night to Rustic Camp to attend to his guests. |
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The first evening we ventured barefoot on to the dunes to watch the sunset. There were no tracks in the sand or any other footprints. The wind was creating lines in the sand that looked almost erotic. The terrain was raw and pristine. Obeid's camels were lingering with nothing particular to do. A baby goat baaed. Obeid invites his guests, particularly children, to milk the goats. He also has local robes to don and dance to traditional music. His style is to give his guests an original authentic feel of Bedouin desert lifestyle.
We dragged the beds out of our tent and slept under the stars. It was heavenly. The next day was a bust. We were at the end of the tourist season and at the cusp of the summer season whose main distinction is literally blinding sand storms. By noon the winds picked up and it was simply impossible to be outside. Sand would infest everything. You could say it was the equivalent of a rainy day only it was raining sand. Colleen was too wary to get out the camera in these conditions. There were two families also staying at the camp, both with two children. One was French, the other Swiss. The kids were enthralled with the desert and Bedouin culture. Otherwise, there happened to be no other guests at this time despite the camp's capacity of 18 tents (often fully booked), so we were grateful to be able to maximize time with Obeid. |
With such a clear sky Colleen asked Obeid if many people see UFOs. Although his English is decent, this word stumped him. He asked her to type it on his Google translate phone app. He contemplated the question seriously but reported no incidents he knew of. Of the dozens if not hundreds of guests he's hosted over the years, no one had ever asked him that question.
Cat showed him pictures of the chem trails she photographed in Muscat, asking him if he’s seen them there in the desert. He immediately recognized the abnormal sky formations and, although he was not aware of what they were, he confirmed that yes, chem trails are sprayed in Wahiba Sands as well. Obeid father's family stayed in the coastal area of Wahiba Sands but Obeid grew up in the interior with his mother's family. Cat remarked that usually the child follows the father's family. Obeid expressed surprise that Cat knew this, saying most people do not. He then proceeded to explain to us the uniquely matriarchal customs of the Wahiba tribe, in marked contradistinction to ubiquitous Arab patriarchal mores. There were a number of other exchanges that intrigued Obeid climaxing with Cat reading his hand. Before leaving he pronounced, "You two, I will remember." He was a great host and an authentic proud indigenous man. We will remember him too. |